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Osso Buco:
Feeney’s Version
By Christopher C. Happ
2004 All rights reserved. EMOL.org
 I went to Feeney’s on a Friday evening to sample the pork Osso Buco,
($19.95). Louis Panos, has owned the restaurant for twenty
years. Prior to Louis’ regime, this was a Cork N’ Cleaver
restaurant, once owned by Pat Feeney.
Frank was my server. He asked me if I
preferred the dish with a sherry-wine sauce or Tomato sauce. I
chose the mushroom sauce just due to tradition. I had never had
the dish served with a Tomato sauce. I asked if the dish was served on
rice. He said that I could choose, rice pilaf or pasta or they
would be happy to serve it with a little bit of both and both
sauces. I opted for the rice and fresh vegetables.
I took advantage of the salad bar and
prepared my own small bleu Cheese salad. Frank brought hot
Sourdough and Pumpernickel bread and butter which I nibbled
sparingly. I had not eaten all day in anticipation.
I ordered a Pinot Grigio by the glass, as I
thought that a big red might overpower the mild pork. The entrée
was brought in a reasonable amount of time and Frank’s timing was
impeccable.
The plate presentation was very nice.
The shank was placed on a pool of the mushroom-sherry sauce with rice
and vegetables on each side. The shank was massive. I later
confirmed with Louis that he was purchasing a 14-16 ounce shank; weight
before cooking. The central bone protruded upward and was
crowned with a small fork for retrieving the heart of the dish, the
marrow. The fork was a little too big to insert. I was
concerned that the pork marrow might not be firm enough to
extract. Actually I believe that it had liquefied during the
cooking process.
The meat was perfectly cooked and the bone
pulled out effortlessly. I was left with a huge portion of solid,
tender muscle. I used my knife to facilitate cutting it into
bite-sized pieces but it was almost unnecessary. The rich brown
sauce complemented the Pork nicely. My entrée was accompanied by a
mixture of fresh carrot, zucchini and broccoli; also cooked to
perfection.
The portion is more than ample for
one. The meat, so tender, so rich. Melt-in-your-mouth; is
an apt description. The white Pinot Grigio was a good choice, as
the meat was mild, yet flavorful. The dish was much richer than I
had anticipated and half-way through, I thought perhaps the tomato sauce
may have been a better choice. The acidity of the tomato may have
cut the richness just enough. I can imagine the dish is well-rounded
with pasta and tomato sauce.
Frank inquired about dessert, but there was
no way! I did order a cup of strong hot coffee to terminate the
dining process. Afterwards I enjoyed a Sambuca with coffee beans,
in the cool October clime, on the airy patio. With the nice music
in the background, I could easily have imagined myself at a fine eatery
in San Francisco or New York.
Feeney’s has a fine selection of wines by
the bottle or glass. Louis does a nice job with fish. Salmon
and Walleye Pike are permanent additions. I was almost envious
watching slabs of prime rib pass my table. Louis cuts his own USDA
Choice top sirloin steaks and offers Filet Mignon, New York Strip
King Crab Legs and a nice selection of appetizers. The shrimp
cocktail is sweet and succulent. My tab was only $28.05 before
tip.
Feeney’s Restaurant & Bar
6314 N. 12th St.
Phoenix, AZ
602-274-9700
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